Port Royal
There are island vibes and then there’s the Bermuda Island vibe. It’s quite different from Hawaii or any spot in the Caribbean.
After all, this is where the Dark & Stormy is prevalent, and it’s where more than 100 years ago, a tea shop owner named Nathanial Coxon hemmed up uniform pants for the British military so they’d be more comfortable in a tropical climate.
Those shorts, of course, would come to be known as Bermuda shorts, a garment of which golfers find very useful. And in Bermuda, the Dark & Stormy, a mixture of ginger beer, lime juice, and Goslings Black Seal dark rum, is almost mandatory during and after a leisure activity. And yes, you can wear a dinner jacket with those Bermuda shorts in Bermuda.
For most of the year, it isn’t that hot in Bermuda, either, because it’s in the middle of the Atlantic along the same latitude as North Carolina. And because of British colonization back in the day, there’s a certain casual elegance to it. You drive on the left side – possibly on a rented Moped – and there are “tea” times in the afternoon.
Of course, we’re more concerned with a different type of tee time when we visit Bermuda, not the kind that includes biscuits. And getting those at Bermuda’s excellent and unique championship courses is the ultimate in relaxation and challenge. The views, the ocean breezes, the hilly courses, and the quality of those layouts are all top notch and uniquely Bermuda. If you’ve never been, we highly recommend it. If you have teed it up in Bermuda, you know what we’re talking about. Let’s take a look:
PGA Tour worthy
In the late fall, the PGA Tour comes to Bermuda to play the Butterfield Bermuda Championship. It’s contested on the best public course on the island, Port Royal Golf Course, a Robert Trent Jones design that first opened in 1970. The course, which is located on the shorefront of Southampton Parish, is said to be one of Jack Nicklaus’ favorite layouts.
In 2009, architect Roger Rulewich, a main protege of Jones who created many of RTJ’s later designs, did a massive renovation of Port Royal ahead of the PGA Grand Slam of Golf, which was conducted there from 2009 to 2014. The idea behind the event was to showcase the year’s four major champions, although that didn’t always pan out (sometimes, a major champion declined, and a replacement was named). In any event, it was a silly season tournament that showed up well on TV with its stunning views and elevation change. The signature hole is the difficult 235-yard, par-3 16th, which is perched on a cliffside above the Atlantic.
Most agree, however, that the best Bermuda course is the Mid-Ocean Club, which played host to the PGA Grand Slam the previous two years. Opened in 1924, Mid Ocean Club, which sits in picturesque Tucker’s Town, is a classic Charles Blair Macdonald and Seth Raynor design that has incredible views, lots of cool holes, and, of course, a century of history. Although it’s a private club, there are limited tee times available, so you’ll definitely want to look into playing there if you’re making a golf trip to Bermuda.
Founded by the Furness Withy Steamship Co., Mid-Ocean will take you back in time. Inside the clubhouse, you’ll find the Churchill Bar, named after Winston Churchill, and the Eden Dining Room, named for Anthony Eden. There are all kinds of interesting photographs, including one of Babe Ruth, who once played there in a competition and was said to have lost more than a dozen golf balls that day. As for the course – which was renovated by RTJ in the 1950s – it’s super interesting from start to finish, with arguably six of the best holes you’ll ever play. The highlight, perhaps, is the 433-yard, par-4 fifth, which features an elevated tee with incredible views of a mangrove lake below.
Another must-play in Bermuda isn’t even a championship layout, but rather a tremendous 18-hole par-3 course. The former home of the Dark & Stormy World Par 3 Championship, the Ted-Robinson-designed par-54 Turtle Hill Golf Club is located at the Fairmont Southampton (currently being renovated). There’s lots of elevation change – the first two holes feature 200-foot drops – and you pretty much get an ocean view on every hole.
Another good play is Tucker’s Point Golf Club. Formerly Castle Harbour Golf Club, the 6,500-yard layout that overlooks Castle Harbour. Originally designed by Charles Banks in 1932, it’s undergone several renovations over the years, including one by Rulewich in 2002. This course shouldn’t be underestimated with its fantastic views and superior conditioning.
And if this isn’t enough golf for you, consider Newstead Belmont Hills Golf Course, the par-62 Five Forts Golf Club near the historic town of St. George, the nine-hole Oceanview Golf Club, and Bermuda Fun Golf. The last on this list is actually a really cool mini golf course, inspired by famous holes in Bermuda, the United States, and Scotland. It even offers glow-in-the-dark night golf.
All of them are scenic and open to the public, which means if you plan a week on Bermuda, you could play a different golf course each day.
Mid-Ocean Club
Magnificent resorts & dining
Of course, there’s way more than golf at Bermuda, including some really nice resorts and bed & breakfasts, fabulous restaurants, and other activities, including deep sea fishing, hiking, beaches, and relaxation.
If you’re looking for high-end luxury, there’s The St. Regis Bermuda Resort, located just steps from St. Catherine’s Beach in St. George. It offers lavish rooms, fine dining, two pools, private cabanas, and an extensive menu of treatments at its spa.
Some other top accommodations include The Loren at Pink Beach in Tucker’s Town, Rosewood Bermuda in Hamilton Parish, and the Hamilton Princess Hotel & Beach Club in Pembroke Hamilton.
As for dining in Bermuda, the national dish is Bermuda fish chowder, which you can get at a number of restaurants. And as you can imagine, great seafood is abundant there. On the east end, there’s The Wharf Restaurant & Bar in St. George. Or check out the Achilles Bermuda, a modern tavern by the sea that serves a variety of fusion “MediterrAsian” dishes. And one of Bermuda’s favorite watering holes is the Docksider Pub & Restaurant, aka “Docksiders” or “Docksies,” located in Hamilton. You can get a Dark & Stormy there, of course, and it’s a great spot to catch up on sporting events since it has more than 20 flatscreens.
As for getting to Bermuda, it’s an easy flight from the bigger cities on the East Coast, of course. The fish-hook shaped island is only 23 miles long, but the roads are windy, so it can take a while to get from one end to the other. If you’re really adventurous, you can rent a scooter, but there’s plenty of public transportation. Booking a golf package is probably the best way to go.
Turtle Hill Golf Club